6 May, 2023
Silk Fibres and Weaves
A satin fabric has been woven in a way that emphasises the high shine of silk. Its smooth, uninterrupted surface bounces light evenly, creating a dazzling sheen.
For almost three thousand years, China zealously guarded the secret of silk production. When silk production eventually spread from China to the rest of the world, it brought immense wealth to cities and regions along the Silk Road.
Silk is valued for its lustrous, smooth texture and requires meticulous care at every stage of production. Unlike synthetic fibres, such as polyester, silk fibres are breathable, hypoallergenic and comfortable against the skin. These qualities make silk a coveted choice for luxury clothing and scarves.
Silk is produced naturally in long fibres called filaments. It is these long fibres that give silk its shine. Other natural fibres include cotton, linen and wool but these fibres are not produced as long filaments.
Like any fibre, silk fibres can be woven in various ways to create fabric. The most easily recognised is the satin weave. A satin fabric has been woven in a way that emphasises the high shine of silk. Its smooth, uninterrupted surface bounces light evenly, creating a dazzling sheen.
A silk twill weave, on the other hand, while still made from silk fibres, creates a more subtle understated sheen. A silk twill weave is more resilient and less likely to snag than a satin weave.
A polyester satin fabric uses polyester as its base. Polyester is a synthetic material, made from petroleum oil, usually mass produced, at a fraction of the cost of silk. In a polyester satin fabric, polyester fibres, rather than silk fibres are bound together in a satin weave. This fabric will have a high shine like silk satin, but will not have the breathability and luxurious feel of silk.
Eri silk has a textured, rustic appearance, whereas silk satin has a recognisable high shine.
There are several different types of silk, made from different types of silkworm. The most common silk, which dominates global production, is mulberry silk. Mulberry silk has a fine texture and a smooth, regular surface.
Tussah, Eri and Muga silks are all 'raw silks'. Silk has a natural gum coating called sericin. Sericin is removed in the production of mulberry silk to create the recognisable smooth fabric with a high shine. Raw silks retain their sericin and this gives the woven fabrics a natural and textured look and feel.
Eri silk has a matte look, with a slubby feel and rustic charm. It is not easily recognisable as silk and can look like cotton or linen.
From the shimmering elegance of mulberry silk to the rustic allure of Tussah and the golden radiance of Muga, the diversity of silk varieties reflects the richness of our world's natural heritage. Despite the passage of centuries, the allure of silk endures, captivating us with its luxurious feel, timeless beauty, and storied history.
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